Water/Alcohol Injection

I made my own water/alcohol injection kit back in 2002, and ever since then I have nothing but good things to say about using this method to eliminate detonation/knock retard.  So far I have ran three different setups, one on supercharged and two on turbocharged application.

Back in 2002 I was getting some K&R (detonation) so I decided to put together my own water injection kit, since all after market kits are way way way over priced, all in above 250US$ mark... I had some parts already and the rest I got from Home Depot and my companies supplier. Theory behind it is to inject water-alcohol mist which enters into cylinder and lowers temperature preventing early detonation of air/fuel mixture. Or something along those lines, all I know it suppose to help. I did some research, and in 2 days I had everything ready to go onto my car. At first I was skeptical and didn't think it would work.

 

Nozzle & Solenoid WI Pump Pressure Switch	Turbo Setup: I ran this setup for couple of months before I decided to go intercooler.  I used 1/4" aluminum plate to block of my Supercharger where rotors use to go.  This provided a perfect place to inject.  I drilled one hole, in middle of plate and installed a single M10 misting nozzle. Later or I decided I needed more mixture injected so I dilled a second hole and had two nozzles running at same time.  M15 and M3 misting nozzles. I used a small plastic solenoid, or some people use check valve.  This is needed if you are injecting after the throttle body.  If this is not in place engine vacuum will suck all water out of your reservoir.  Picture of nozzles, plate, and solenoid can be seen in first picture on left. Since I was injecting after the turbo, I had to use a high pressure 12V pump, to fight pressure created by turbo.  I picked ShurFlo high pressure pump (2nd picture from top), capable of creating 100psi (more since car voltage is greater then 12V).  Pressure of pump was also adjustable. Pump and solenoid operation is controlled by a adjustable pressure switch.  Power to pump and solenoid is provided by pressure switch at preset psi level.  When turbo builds enough boost, switch detects it and powers up solenoid which opens flow to the engine, and pump starts pumping the liquid in.  Pressure switch connects same way as a boost gauge, to one of your engines vacuum lines, and its adjustable by Allen screen located on side of switch.  I used World Magnetics (3rd pic from top) brand pressure switch adjustable from 2 to 20psi.
Spacer/Nozzle Nozzle	Supercharger Setup: My first water/alcohol injection.  Had this setup for a year, running 2.9" pulley on daily bases.  Best time i managed with it was 12.71@105 not bad for none intercooled, none camed Grand Prix. Single M15 misting nozzle was placed between throttle body and supercharger.  Spacer was custom made by me out of Polypropylene 3/4" thick plastic.  I avoided injecting after Supercharger for few reasons: to close to manifold not every cylinder would get equal amount of mixture, pump would have to fight boost to inject mixture therefore stronger more expensive pump would have to be used (stronger = more current = bad). For pump I used as small as possible low current fluid pump capable of 40psi.  Now since nozzle is placed after the throttle body, there is going to be vacuum created by engine which will suck your mixture out of its container.  To prevent this I used a very low current (again) small solenoid.  Also please try placing solenoid and pump as close as possible to injection point. To trigger injection system I used a World Magnetics pressure switch set at 4.8psi.  It connects to your intake manifold, same as your boost gauge, and it acts as a switch that comes ON when boost gets to 4.8psi turning on the pump and opening the solenoid. I actually wrote a How-To on Ontario Quebec Grand Prix web site: http://www.oqcgp.com/forum/kb.php?mode=article&k=9
	E-Mail questions I received in past: Q: Will this strip of Teflon coating on my supercharger rotors ? A: Yes and No.  Depends on mixture you are running.  I usually run regular -40C blue windshield washer fluid and after a year of running it I still had coating on my rotors.  There is only one way to find out, run it and see what happens. Q: Can I inject water/alcohol mixture under my SC ? A: It can be done.  I never done it myself or seen somebody do it.  It would be hard to get nozzle under there.  Since intake manifold is large and nozzle being so close to intake valves there are couple of things that I would consider before doing it.  Single nozzle will no be able to cool off all air coming off, you would need multiple nozzles positioned so every inch is covered.  You don't want some of air cooled and some still at high temp.  Also possibility of one or two cyl getting hot air all the time.  Also time water has to cool air before it goes into combustion chamber is small.  So to compensat you would have to inject more or decrease boost/timing. Q: What mixture do you use ? A: I tried methanol, denatured alcohol, ethanol, and bunch of other alcohols that I can't spell, mixed with water.  I haven't noticed difference between mixtures.  Last try was with regular windshield washer fluid, the -40C blue stuff, worked great so I just stayed with it.  Cheaper then other alcohols, plus no mixing, just poor it in there :).  Just make sure you by regular -40C stuff, don't buy any of that -45C or something that contains detergent or Teflon.  -45C stuff contains over 60% alcohol, and Teflon/detergent stuff, I don't know , I just don't want that stuff in my engine :) Q: Check valve or solenoid ? A: I don't know.  I personally never tried  check valve.  I still like something electronic that has a click to it when you energize it :).  (solenoid can not be heard in car while driving) Q: Nozzle location ? A: I always told people to place the nozzle as far from intake manifold as possible but after the throttle body.  I think throttle body plate is just another obstruction in airs path.  Also you give mixture more time in air to absorb as much of heat as possible. ...more to come